Why This Watch Matters

Packed with 1970s charm, this sporty Zodiac chronograph has a fresh red, white, and blue colorway and the unusual combination of a tachymeter and pulsation scale on the dial. It's also fitted with one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements.

The Full Story

This Zodiac chronograph is clearly indicative of the larger watch design trends of the 1970s. The red, white, and blue colors on the dial are bold and immediately grab your attention, while the chunky stainless steel tonneau case with a subtle sunburst finish is similar to those found on countless chronographs of the period (including the Heuer Monaco and Omega Speedmaster Mark II).

What's most relevant for fans of chronograph history, however, is the movement inside. The caliber 90 automatic chronograph movement is identical to the Heuer caliber 12 of the time, as Heuer provided its movements to other watch brands. The caliber 12 movement is the second generation version of the caliber 11, which was one of the world's first automatic chronograph movements when it was released in 1969. Caliber 12 addressed some of the shortcomings of the original movement construction, and today it's regarded as a more reliable and precise movement overall.

This is an excellent chance to own a watch with some of the most characteristic elements of 1970s watchmaking.

The Fine Print

Maker: Zodiac 
Model: Chronograph 
Reference: 902 886 
Year: 1970s 
Case No: N/A
Material: Stainless steel 
Dimensions: 44mm diameter; 13.3mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: Yes, tritium 
Caliber: Automatic Zodiac caliber 90 (Heuer caliber 12)
Bracelet/Strap: Zodiac stainless steel bracelet
Lug Width: 22mm
Box/Papers: No 

What we Love and What You Should Know

This watch is overall in very good condition. The case remains solid with some light scratches from regular wear. The edges of the case remain crisp and the sunburst finish on the front is intact. The caseback engraving is still very legible. The pushers are the correct type, with faceted sides. The dial shows an attractive patina, with the colors slightly muted. The dial shows some spots of wear on the left sub-register, around the white parts of each register, near some of the hour markers, and around the dial in a select few small spots. The lume on the hands and dial has developed patina; some of the lume plots show normal signs of wear, with some lume loss. There is light wear on the hands that is consistent with age. The bracelet is fully intact with some stretch between the links. The movement, dial, case, bracelet, and crown are all signed by Zodiac.